Feast Read online

  SERVES 6 TO 8

  FOR THE FILLING

  2 squabs or 3 quail

  2 medium onions (10½ ounces/300 g total), grated on the coarse side of a grater (about 1 cup)

  ½ cup (30 g) finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

  ½ cup (30 g) finely chopped cilantro

  1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

  1½ teaspoons ground ginger

  1 teaspoon ground ras el-hanout

  ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

  2 good pinches of saffron threads

  Sea salt

  4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the baking dish

  ⅔ cup (100 g) blanched almonds

  10 organic eggs, lightly beaten

  2 tablespoons powdered sugar

  FOR THE PIE

  16 sheets phyllo dough (12½ x 7 inches/32 x 18 cm), or 11 sheets warqa

  1 stick (120 g) unsalted butter, melted

  Powdered sugar, for garnish

  Ground cinnamon, for garnish

  1. To make the filling: Put the squabs in a heavy pot. Add the onions, parsley, cilantro, cinnamon, ginger, ras el-hanout, cayenne, saffron, and a little salt. Add 1¾ cups (430 ml) water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. As the water comes to a boil, add the 4 tablespoons (60 g) butter. Cover and cook for 20 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium-low, turn the birds in the sauce, and simmer for 10 more minutes, or until the birds are done.

  2. Put the almonds in the hot oven and toast them for about 7 minutes, or until golden brown. Take out of the oven and keep the oven on. Let the almonds cool before grinding them coarsely in a food processor.

  3. Remove the squabs to a plate and let cool. The sauce should be very thick. If it isn’t, let it bubble over high heat, stirring regularly, until completely reduced and silky. Once this is done, reduce the heat to low, then whisk the eggs into the sauce and scramble them, whisking all the time, for about 5 minutes, or until set but still creamy. Take off the heat.

  4. Take the squab meat off the bone, discarding the skin. Tear into small pieces. Mix the ground almonds with the powdered sugar.

  5. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).

  6. To assemble the pie: Lay one sheet of phyllo over the bottom of a shallow 12-inch (30 cm) round nonstick baking dish. If you don’t have one, brush the bottom and sides of a normal one with a little of the melted butter. Brush with some melted butter and lay another sheet across the first one. Brush with butter and lay 4 more sheets, overlapping them as you go along so that you have pastry overhanging all around the edges. (If you are using warqa, cover the bottom of the dish with one sheet. Then fan 4 sheets in a rosette, half inside the dish and half outside. Cover the bottom of the dish with another sheet—you do not need to brush the warqa with butter as it is already lightly oiled.)

  7. Spread the ground almonds evenly over the pastry. Lay 2 phyllo sheets (or one warqa) over the almonds and brush with melted butter. Spread the squab meat over the pastry and cover with another 2 phyllo sheets (or one warqa) and brush with melted butter. Spread the scrambled eggs all over the pastry and lay another phyllo (or warqa) sheet over the eggs. Fold the loose pastry over the eggs and lay the remaining 5 sheets of phyllo (or 2 warqa) over the filling, again overlapping them and brushing each with butter, and carefully tuck in the loose ends inside the pie dish and under the pie, as if you were tucking in a sheet under a mattress. If the warqa is too thick—some western commercial brands are—trim the inside layers and just lay the top 2 sheets over the pie without tucking them under the pie. Brush the top with butter.

  8. Bake the b’stilla for 20 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown all over. Let sit for 2 to 3 minutes, then dust the top with powdered sugar. Make a square or diamond pattern by sprinkling thin lines of ground cinnamon at about 1-inch (2.5 cm) intervals. Serve immediately.

  Egg Briouats

  BRIOUAT BEL BEID

  MOROCCO

  Briouats are the Moroccan version of the Turkish boreks or the Lebanese/Syrian fatayer, or the Indian/Pakistani samosas. They are simple and quick to make, and in this version the filling is wonderfully moist, making a scrumptious contrast with the crunchy pastry. The subtle hint of saffron elevates the eggs. You could also serve the scrambled eggs and herb filling on toast as a quick starter or a light meal. The trick here is to cook the eggs just right: If undercooked, they’ll sog up the pastry; if cooked too much, they will continue to cook inside the pastry and become rubbery. In Morocco they deep-fry the briouats, but I prefer to bake them.

  MAKES 16 PASTRIES

  FOR THE SCRAMBLED EGGS

  ¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

  3 medium onions (1 pound/450 g total), finely chopped (about 3 cups)

  2 ounces (60 g) cilantro, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped

  2 ounces (60 g) flat-leaf parsley, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped

  Good pinch of saffron threads

  ¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper

  ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

  8 organic eggs

  Sea salt

  FOR THE BRIOUATS

  16 sheets phyllo dough (12½ x 7 inches/32 x 18 cm)

  7 tablespoons (105 g) unsalted butter, melted

  Vegetable oil, for deep-frying (optional)

  1. To make the scrambled eggs: Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté, stirring regularly, until soft and transparent. Add the herbs and spices. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 5 more minutes.

  2. Meanwhile, beat the eggs with salt to taste.

  3. When the onions are completely soft, add the eggs and scramble for 7 to 10 minutes, or until just set. Don’t let them stay too runny or they will sog up the pastry. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Let cool.

  4. To make the briouats: Fold a sheet of phyllo in half lengthwise and brush with melted butter. Place 1½ tablespoons filling at the end nearest to you and slightly in from the edges. Fold a bottom corner of the pastry over the egg filling to form a triangle, then continue folding to maintain the triangle shape until you reach the other end. The filling should be completely encased. If there is a little phyllo still loose, either cut it or fold it to be on the bottom of the pastry. Brush with butter and make the other briouats in the same way.

  5. To bake the briouats: Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Bake the briouats for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Place on a wire rack to cool a little. Serve warm.

  6. To deep-fry the briouats: Place a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Pour 2 inches (5 cm) of oil into a large deep skillet. Heat the oil over medium heat until hot (if you drop a piece of bread in the oil, the oil should immediately bubble around it). Drop as many briouats as will fit comfortably in the pan and fry for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until golden brown all over. Transfer to a wire rack to let the excess oil drain off. Serve hot or warm.

  Southern Lebanese Za’atar “Pizza”

  MANAQISH JREESH

  LEBANON

  Manaqish are the quintessential Lebanese breakfast, a sort of Lebanese “pizza” that comes with a variety of toppings. The most common topping is a mixture of za’atar (a dried herb mixture) and olive oil, and you can have these za’atar manaqish either plain or wrap them around labneh, fresh mint, olives, and tomatoes. In southern Lebanon, which is mostly Shi‘ite, manaqish are often made with the same dough as that for mishtah, a regional flatbread that is made with added cracked wheat and is seasoned with a mixture of spices, which gives it an intriguing flavor and texture. I had never tasted mishtah or even knew about it when I lived in Lebanon, which is strange given how small the country is. But despite its size, Lebanon has distinctive and often hidden regional specialties; and now that I have discovered mishtah, thanks to my friend Nayla Audi whose family comes from the south, it has become my favorite Lebanese bread and I often use mishtah rather than pita dough to make my manaqish. You can use either. The recipe below was given to me by a baker in
South Lebanon who makes his mishtah in individual round loaves—other bakers make them very long, a little like Roman pizza, which they then cut and sell by the slice. You can replace the za’atar with thin slices of Halloumi cheese or even lay the sliced Halloumi over the za’atar (about 6 thin slices of cheese for each round of dough); it is a good idea to rinse the cheese to make it less salty.

  MAKES 6 INDIVIDUAL “PIZZAS”

  FOR THE DOUGH

  3⅓ cups (375 g) whole wheat flour, plus all-purpose flour for kneading and shaping

  1 packet (7g/2¼ teaspoons) instant (fast-acting) yeast

  1 teaspoon fine sea salt

  3 tablespoons sesame seeds

  3 tablespoons anise seeds

  ½ teaspoon ground mahlep

  ½ teaspoon ground anise seeds

  ½ teaspoon daqqat kaak (a special spice mixture from the south; optional)

  ¾ cup (125 g) King Arthur’s organic cracked wheat (jreesh), soaked for 1 hour in cold water, drained

  Extra-virgin olive oil, for the bowl

  FOR THE TOPPING

  6 tablespoons za’atar

  ½ cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

  1. To make the dough: Mix the flour, yeast, salt, sesame seeds, and spices in a large bowl. Stir in the cracked wheat and make a well in the center. Gradually add 1¼ cups (310 ml) warm water, bringing in the flour as you go along. Mix until you have a rough ball of dough.

  2. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 3 minutes. Shape into a ball, invert the bowl over the dough, and let rest for 15 minutes. Knead for 3 more minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Grease a large bowl with a little olive oil. Shape the dough into a ball and place in the bowl, turning it to coat all over with oil. Cover with plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm, draft-free for 1 hour, until more or less doubled in size.

  3. Transfer the dough to your work surface. Divide into 6 equal portions. Shape each into a ball. Cover with a very damp kitchen towel. Return to rise for 45 minutes.

  4. Flatten each ball with your hands or a rolling pin into a round 7 to 8 inches (17.5 to 20 cm) in diameter. Transfer to a nonstick baking sheet (or a regular baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat).

  5. To make the topping: Mix the za’atar and olive oil in a bowl. Dividing evenly, spread the za’atar mixture on the dough rounds, making sure you oil the edges. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.

  6. Preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) degrees, or to its highest setting.

  7. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until lightly golden. Serve warm or let cool on a wire rack to serve at room temperature.

  Ramadan Bread

  KHOBZ RAMADAN

  LEBANON | SYRIA

  The date shines during Ramadan, the Muslim month of fast, even more so than at any other time of the year. Apart from the fact that many Arabs break their fast by eating dates, there are many breads and sweets that are made with them during that time, including this one that you find in the souks of Tripoli in North Lebanon, as well as those of Damascus and also, in the past before they were destroyed, the souks of Aleppo. They are usually sold off street carts or in bakeries. They are also made at home. You can shape them small or very large, and in the case of the latter they are pricked all over to achieve a decorative effect. I got the following recipe from a charming baker in Byblos, Lebanon, who also explained to me all about the making of ka’keh (a sesame bread that looks like a handbag). He fills his with dates as described below, and also makes them plain as a sort of brioche-like bread. These breads freeze very well and I often make a batch to freeze and have for breakfast whenever I feel like it.

  MAKES 6 INDIVIDUAL BREADS

  FOR THE DOUGH

  3⅓ cups (400 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and shaping

  1 packet (7g/2¼ teaspoons) instant (fast-acting) yeast

  ⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt

  ½ teaspoon whole milk powder

  ¾ teaspoon baking powder

  ¼ cup (50 g) baker’s sugar or superfine sugar

  ½ tablespoon (7 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

  1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

  FOR THE FILLING

  9 ounces (250 g) pitted dates (10 to 12 Medjool dates)

  4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter

  TO FINISH

  Toasted sesame seeds

  Egg wash: 1 egg yolk whisked with 1 teaspoon water

  1. To make the dough: Mix the flour, yeast, salt, milk powder, baking powder, and sugar in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the softened butter and oil to the well and, with the tips of your fingers, rub into the flour until well incorporated. Gradually add 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (280 ml) warm water, bringing in the flour as you go along. Knead until you have a rough ball of dough.

  2. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball and invert the bowl over the dough. Let rest for 15 minutes. Knead for 3 more minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Shape into a ball and place in a clean, lightly floured bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 2 hours. Fold after the first hour: Take the dough out of the bowl. Gently flattening it with the palm of your hands, fold it over into a rectangle, then fold the rectangle into a square. Return to the bowl with the folded side down. Cover and let rise for 1 more hour.

  3. To make the filling: Process the dates in a food processor until coarsely chopped. Add the butter and process until you have a fine paste. Roll into a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate while the dough is rising.

  4. Transfer the dough to your work surface. Divide into 6 equal portions, each weighing about 4 ounces (125 g). Roll each into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 15 minutes.

  5. Divide the date paste into 6 equal portions. Roll each into a ball.

  6. Roll out one ball of dough to a round 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. Flatten a ball of date paste to a 4-inch (10 cm) disk. Place the date disk in the middle of the disk of dough and fold the dough over, gently pulling and stretching until you completely cover the date filling. Pinch the edges to seal and, with your hands, flatten further to make an even disk.

  7. Scatter sesame seeds all over a nonstick baking sheet (or a regular baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat). Transfer the filled bread to the baking sheet, placing it seam side down. Cover with plastic wrap. Make the other breads the same way and transfer to the baking sheet. Cover with a wet, but not dripping, kitchen towel. Let rise for 30 to 45 minutes.

  8. Twenty minutes before the breads are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).

  9. Brush the breads with the egg wash and sprinkle sesame seeds all over the tops. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown all over. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve at room temperature.

  Saudi Meat Pies

  AISH BIL-LAHM

  SAUDI ARABIA

  Very simple to make and totally delectable, these meat pies from Saudi Arabia are eaten as a snack or part of a meal spread. I make them in individual portions but you can also make one large pie. The crumbly flaky pie dough makes for a nice crisp casing for the meat. It is also flavored with an intriguing Arabian spice mixture called b’zar. Serve with duggus or with an arugula and tomato salad.

  MAKES 8 INDIVIDUAL PIES

  FOR THE DOUGH

  1¼ cups (160 g) unbleached all-purpose flour

  1⅓ cups (150 g) whole wheat flour

  ¼ cup (30 g) whole milk powder

  1 teaspoon b’zar (Arabian Spice Mixture)

  1 packet (7g/2¼ teaspoons) instant (fast-acting) yeast

  1 teaspoon baking powder

  1½ teaspoons fine sea salt

  1 teaspoon raw cane sugar

  3½ tablespoons (50 g) ghee or unsalted butter

  2 tablespoons sunflower oil

  1 organic egg

  FOR THE FILLING

  3 tablespo
ons sunflower oil

  2 medium onions (10½ ounces/300 g total), finely chopped

  14 ounces (400 g) ground lamb or beef

  1¼ teaspoons finely ground black pepper

  1 medium leek, very thinly sliced

  3 tablespoons tahini

  1 tablespoon black vinegar

  Fine sea salt

  A few sprigs cilantro, most of the stems discarded, finely chopped

  TO FINISH

  Egg wash: 1 egg whisked with 1 teaspoon water

  Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish

  1. To make the dough: Mix the flours, milk powder, b’zar, yeast, baking powder, salt, and sugar in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the ghee and oil to the well and with the tips of your fingers, rub into the flour. Add the egg and gradually add ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (100 ml) water. Mix until you have a rough dough.

  2. Remove the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead for 3 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball, invert the bowl over the dough, and let rest for 15 minutes. Knead for 3 more minutes. Roll into a ball. Place in a lightly floured bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 1½ hours.